Hi Stefan.

@You "...i usually export for 3D printing as triangles from MoI and not as NGons.
I assume that Shapeways Display Software displays it not smooth when
not triangles. I would simply do another check with triangles export from
MoI and see if it looks better..."


Ok! Thanks!

@You : "...what i mean is i prefer high quality prints when printing something for myself...."

OK. I understand :)

Thanks.

LOL :)

Thanks BurrMan !!

Thanks a lot Ed for infos!

Much appreciated.

I'm seeing that "3D printing" is a whole universe...so many things to understand and learn :)

Ciao!

Hi Marco,

For cheaper 3D prints, did you already check the 3D Hubs link from my previous reply?

https://www.3dhubs.com

They're active in Italy too. You're located in Italy if I remember it correctly, or not?

Alternatively, you can try a nearby Fablab. Their service is similar to 3D Hubs.

https://www.fablabs.io

If you choose the PLA material, the price should be about as low as possible for a 3D print.

Regards,

Metin

———————

visualization • pixel art • illustration • 3D design — https://metinseven.com

Cool 3D print, Burr!

The "resolution" of your print is going to be more limited by the physical printer, than the poly count of the model...

Obviously, 5,000 polys can show the poly facets in your printed output, but a 5,000,000 poly model exportes from 3dcoat with an 80% reduction at export, would show almost no change and look perfectly smooth.

The printers resolutuon and its "steps" will show lomg before that. A printer with extremely high resolution capabilities, will be EXPENSIVE!

Most of the 3d printers work natively in MM. So i always upload my models in MM.

For those that are new to printing, and are "construction oriented", we like concrete and mortar!

For 3d print objects, baking powder and CA glue = instant concrete/patch!!!!

CA glue will also make a shiney, bullet proof finish on those "basic material" models...

Here is soaked a dye into the print for a few days, then gave it the coating...


Pretty rock solid....

BurrMan says: "The "resolution" of your print is going to be more limited by the physical printer, than the poly count of the model..."

He is absolutely correct. Your printer resolution overrides any minor surface flaws in your model - you won't see them. The 3D printer doesn't know about polys, it simply draws (prints) in 2D planar curves, moves the Z axis up a bit, and draws (prints) the next set of curves on top.

I don't know what resolution Shapeways has, but on my home printer I typically print at 0.1 inch layer height which is the vertical resolution. The horizontal resolution is much better. I simply export STL from MoI with the slider set for maximum resolution. My printer's nozzle is 0.4mm diameter, and that is what sets the horizontal resolution limit in practice.

The limitations of the printer do influence the way you design the model. In my case I print mostly mechanical items that fit together as opposed to organic "artsy" items. I've somewhat learned how to adjust my designs for tolerance when they must fit together.

Ed Ferguson

Yes Metin, you remember well!
I'm in Italy :)

I will try other tests with 3dhubs to see how things dhouls be done on that platform.

Thanks a lot for help and for PLA suggestion!

Thank you very much BurrMan and Ed for your so detailed explanation :)

Very valuable suggestions!

Marco (mkdm)

An another challenger :)
https://pro.sculpteo.com/en/

Hi Marco,

I know I'm coming late to this 3D printing party. I have had three 3D printers and have also used multiple online services. For the most part, voxelization is not required when coming from MoI as long as you object is a single solid. You can add wall thicknesses in MoI or OnShape after the fact. Export as polys DOES NOT have to be as fine as you show, as the typical printing resolution isn't all that fine -- even though they say it is there is a "blurring" effect when you 3D print.

3D Coat is good if you have poly models created in non-solid modelers, where you can voxelize and be sure you have a solid. As someone earlier said, Shapeways (a great company for this sort of thing) has a 1M poly limit per object. The 3D printed cannon I shared before had lots of issues and I used Autodesk Netfab to help fine tune the wall and part thicknesses as well as detail resolution.

I would suggest starting on something simple, like you've shown. Just cut down on the number of polys coming out of MoI and you should be fine. Shapeways will alert you if a model in non-manifold and many times it will try and fix it for you.

Again, MoI is *great* for 3D printing and is one of the main reasons I started using it. Surface modelers are just too hard to control. Solids are the way to go. HTH.

Hello Chipp!

How are you ?
I hope fine ;)

Thank you very much for your precious advice!

@You : "...For the most part, voxelization is not required when coming from MoI...Export as polys DOES NOT have to be as fine as you show, as the typical printing resolution isn't all that fine -- even though they say it is there is a "blurring" effect when you 3D print..."

Hmmm....That's exactly what I was wondering...

@You : "...Just cut down on the number of polys coming out of MoI and you should be fine...."

OK! Got it :)

So, as I've said I'm totally a newcomer in the world of 3D Printing and I guess that in order to understand something more I need to send a simple model to one of the printing services around and see for myself how it's the "physical" result of the 3D printing.

I need to have the final objects in my hand to "feel" how it is, smooth or not, and how it looks :)

Also, consider that as I've said in my very first post, my intention is to do a "hand paint" of the printed model, so I also need to see the model in my hand to see how and if it's easy or not to paint it.

Do you have any experience in "hand painting" of 3D printed models ?

Thanks a lot for info.

I stay tuned :)

Hi Marco,

about hand painting, what i would do is asking the printing service, depending
on the material you choose, what primer they recommend prior painting and
after sanding. A primer for cars may be not the same as a primer for classic
plastic / resin scale modeling kits, for example.

Regards
Stefan

Hi Stefan!

@You : "...about hand painting, what i would do is asking the printing service, depending on the material you choose,..."

Thanks a lot for this good advice.

Ciao!

I agree with Stefan-- you never know how the primer or paint will react to the model.

So rich and precious information about 3D printing! Excellent idea the opening of such a thread in the forum Marco! Thanks! : - )

You're welcome Dimitri!