Hi Michael, Thank you. The small MoI one is a scaled down version of the large one, bracelet and ring sizes. As per your illustration - that's is how I lofted them in MoI but the curves were too dissimilar. Then I started again, used identical curves opposite each other, (2 pairs with the same number of points and ridges) but scaled 1 of the opposites. Hoping that stops the Z fighting.
I use a 64 bit laptop the SMouse works with other SW but it is not essential anyway. I just updated all drivers but it did not change the SM.

Hi Ed, You are right about the photography. Good work with Keyshot, anodising Titanium gets some great colours.

I worked in a studio and darkroom. Things have changed a lot but the basic rules probably still apply, maybe even in rendering.

You should not mix daylight, flash, tungsten or LED lighting, different colour temperatures.
Daylight from windows must be blacked out.
The difference between brightest and darkest areas must not be > 1.5 f stops.
A decent spot light meter is essential.
Shadows are reduced with tiny foil on card reflectors propped up with BluTac just out of shot
Glare is reduced by spraying the offending surfaces with diluted milk, polarising filters ...
Or multiple synced flashes bounced off umbrella reflectors ...
Better depth of field requires lots of light and a stopped down lens, f16 or 32.
Longer exposures with hi fstops achieve better colour.
... The new multi focal point cameras are amazing.


Cheers,

Gary