Did this one work?
With the length of the stocks varying several inches in length from one order to the next, I planned to zero from the right back region which is where the metal fits in the grip and is the constant. The top portion of the arc on the top right portion is about .4" behind the metal.
The bolt holes on the left side are 3.1" apart-but this varies with different recoil pads.
I have fixtures holding the wood up off the table since the wood thickness varies.
With the variations in length as well as thickness of grip region in most orders, I see the machine doing the rough shaping and the final shaping will allow for the variations.

Tony

It opened on mine with changing the "open with" to a cad type wording.
Pretty nice to move the three around and size them better.


Tony

Here is the easy part, outline of a center plane. (other two pictures removed.)

Do not have a cross section of the butt end...

I suppose the pictures introduce a bit of distortion?

The front picture seems to be of a different stock? Was not able
to align it very well.

Got to quit for now...

Edit, used Options icon at bottom of screen to set units to inches.

hope this helps or do they need to be on same attachment?

Tony

Pistol grip....

Butt profile

Excellent grip tutorial!

Thanks a bunch. I can only open the attachments from my shop computer so I have not been able to watch the last couple. Looking very forward to Tue afternoon when I should get time back in the shop.
The right picture showing the front of the stock was of the same stock, but very hard to get it accurate. What do I do with the right picture, and how do I line up and connect them into a solid?
I will need to practice a lot. The icons used to get the pistol grip region finger grooves will work on the stock picture as well correct?

Tony

Wow, Bemfarmer and Burrman, you have shown me a lot of stuff needed. Thank you very much. I will be practicing later today. BemFarmer, how did you get the curve lines for the behind the grip region?

I also am not sure, how did you use the right side picture of the front of the stock to help this process?

Tony

Hi Tony,

Well, I cannot claim that anything I did was the "proper" or best method...
The curved region was done using the tree rings as "contour" lines, like in a terrestrial map of elevations.
This assumes that the grain was straight and parallel to the center plane of the stock, which may not be true, but
given the taper of the left of the stock, and the way the tree rings taper, it looks fairly parallel.
So the curved portion should be more or less accurate. They may need to be redone, or made less shallow...
In Top view, placed a lot of dot points along a curve. The leftmost dot was placed at high z, starting from the far left loft. The rest of the dots occur at z = 0.
In Top view, starting with the high z dot, doing a freeform arc through all the dots, created a curve with constant high z value. The curve did NOT drop down to the center plane. Then did lofts or sweeps... This was time consuming, and the result less than perfect.
The naked edge test showed a lot of edges, so some fixing may be needed...


The two rounded, right hand red extrusions were quick and easy. In Right view, the right end picture was aligned to match the base of the handgrip, and
the top (back) of the rounded area. Then the thickness was estimated, and one (or two) rectangles made. The rectangle is extruded to be larger than the
front rounded area. Then the centerline top profile of the rounded section was extruded in the plus and minus z directions, beyond the red areas, and used
as a boolean difference to trim the red 3D rectangle solid. (A common and good technique). (Had some trouble with disapearing red portions, so should have just done one red block, and then copy it...)

Made an assumption that the stock is not right handed. (That the bottom half is symetrical with the top half.)

Ok. I am getting the feel for using the pictures in the back ground. But, now how do I bring them together to see what it looks like before going to far.

Tony

Hi Tony,

In my opinion, it is a good idea to scale the photos, and move them so that they match up with each other, using the view,image,align command.
It helps me to place points at certain areas on the photos, say two points per photo, say 1 point at left center, 1 point at right center.
Also place a start and an end point on the MoI screen, at known lengths, where the stock will be created.

The align command takes a little bit of practice, but is fairly easy...
Pick the two points on the photos, then pick start point on the screen, and the endpoint on the screen.
The photo is scaled and can also be rotated a bit, if it is slightly askew.

Lots of saves helps, as going backwards may be limited. Setting up the incremental save script is handy. (Alt+S).

(Just one amateurs opinions.)

There is going to be some distortion and slightly angled photos, so the photos are a guide, not perfection...

Thanks. I forgot to do the left/butt drawing as well.
I use loft to connect the 3 planes correct?
More practice tonight.

Tony

Another question, do i need to draw a drawing in the back screen as well?

Tony

Hi Tony,
I think that a photo of the back side of the stock would have valuable data for forming the grip/trigger end, depending upon how
much detail you are creating... A lot of measurements of distances and curvatures might help too.

The impression is that you are aiming for say 80% of the finished product?

IMHO it is not a matter of putting up 4 or 5 pictures, pushing the loft button, and having a finished model.
The loft tool is helpful, and perhaps sweep and network as well... etc.

when I try to put the back picture in the window, the front picture is there and I can figure out how to delete the wrong picture for the screen. Help needed with this one.
80% would be more than enough for now while I am learning.

Tony

?
Under view image, select a jpg, and hit the show/hide button.

Thanks. I will work on it again this evening.

Tony

Well, I have been working on it but just am not getting the time to make much progress. My limited computer skills sure slow things down. Anyway, I am getting farther and farther behind trying to get this going so, The first of next wk I will be asking if someone who is better at this work than I am, would be interested in drawing the stock up in a format I can send to cut3D. I am posting this here so the people who have been helping me, who would know the best how long it will take to do this based on the prior e-mails can e-mail me if they are interested. I do not expect it to be perfect, but close enough so I can take it from there. I do expect and want to pay for the time involved. Let me know if interested to help with this project.

My e-mail address is below for contacting me.

Thanks

Tony

akgdc@prtel.com

(message from bemfarmer, moved here from another thread)

Tony, here is a possible model.

Added just a bit to the butt end.
The hand grip is a little oversize.

Would need to be checked against actual model to see if it is the right size.

Some more boolean unions, point removal...
Not sure just what additional processing is needed to get the model?
May not be watertight?