Hi Tony

It is my understanding, that first, a 3D model is created, in MoI for example.
The 3D model is imported into Cut3D, using the correct file type, one that Cut3D can read.
Cut3D creates the tool paths, (gcode), using the 3Dmodel, which tells the CNC machine how to move the cutter blade.
The piece of wood has to be mounted in the correct orientation, and turned over, with proper alignment "holes/pins", to cut the 2sides, (or 4 sides.)

I believe there is quite a learning curve, with practice on some cheaper medium, say mdf, medium density fiber board, or some rigid foam...

(I have Aspire, a similar program to Cut3D, but have not spent much time learning how to use it.)

The fixtures to hold the wood and turn it over to do both sides are made and working well for when I run the router manually.
I have blocks of scraps ready to go in the fixtures for when I have it ready for a test run. Getting the back portion of the stock shaped fairly close will start saving me time compared to how I make these currently.
The block now is to get the shape in 3d and fairly close in size and shape, then on to cut3D.
My understanding of the Moi, then to cut 3D for editing and then on the Mach3 for guiding the machine is like yours. But I have no first hand experience with these programs-or much on basic file save and move steps.

Tony

Hi Tony

Here is a reference to a stock: http://www.cnczone.com/forums/rhino_3d/32789-rifle_stock.html
Note all the red cross sections.
You could measure your stock prototype, with respect to some reference lines/planes, like the butt end, "centerline", angles, etc ...
And then create a bunch of cross sections, to be entered into MoI, with the correct dimensions...

Here's a quick look at your file:

Thank you!!!! I am looking forward to getting a early start in the morning trying the steps you show. Very helpful!

Tony

Hi Tony, yeah Burr has done a great job showing how you need to arrange your curves in order to produce the loft you want, thanks very much Burr for the video!

- Michael

I practiced for a while this am. I see some time getting the feel for these tools. Saw several things I was doing wrong and corrected them. Still several steps, like rotating the objects and sizing, I need to practice more tonight. Burr, you made it look so easy and fast. Gives me encouragement.

Tony

Well, I never thought I would ask this but here it goes. I am not getting the time to practice drawing the things I need to get them turning out right. Do you know who I could talk to about sending a sample to have it drawn so I could load it in the next program (Cut 3D)? I realize whoever would be willing to help will need to see what I am doing before they would have a idea of what it would cost. I am getting farther behind than expected learning how to do these things mostly due to my lack of basic computer skills.

Thanks

Tony

Hi Tony,

> Do you know who I could talk to about sending a sample to have
> it drawn so I could load it in the next program (Cut 3D)?

I don't myself know who you would contact for that, you could try to just post a new topic here in the forum asking to hire someone to do some modeling for you.

You might try looking on http://grabcad.com/ to see if someone there has some experience in modeling the kind of stuff that you want to do and then contact them through that site to see if they are interested in doing contract work.

- Michael

Thanks for the suggestions.
Question- On post 25 is a drawing I attempted that had the cut out shape. If I wanted to just draw it to cut the rough 2D shape, would this work? What tools would I use to get the outline drawn accurately for cutting?

Thanks

Tony

Hi Tony,

I think you would need to make a set of blueprints for your stock.
Measure all of the dimensions and angles.
It would help to have some reference points or planes, line the butt end.
Left view, right view, top view, bottom view, 2 end views, complete with measurements.

Here is how some guys made a 3D model of a laser rifle. http://www.3d-sphere.com/weapons/modeling-a-laser-rifle-in-3dsmax
http://kronosprops.blogspot.com/2010/03/aer9-laser-rifle-fallout-3-prop.html

Also have read that if you have a model of the action, you can boolean it out of the stock.

You could scan some precise photos, and import into moi as a help in making the blueprints...

I think autodesk has a free online program to create 3d models from some photos. Never used it...

Again, need the measurements...

Hi Tony,

> Question- On post 25 is a drawing I attempted that had the cut
> out shape. If I wanted to just draw it to cut the rough 2D shape,
> would this work?

Well that would work but the result would be exactly what you see there, you would get a shape with totally flat vertical sides that looks sort of like what you get when you push a cookie cutter into a piece of dough. That's a pretty different kind of shape than the actual sculptured type form that you really want to get though.

So even though that will work it will construct a shape that's pretty different from what you really need.


> What tools would I use to get the outline drawn
> accurately for cutting?

I'm not sure if I understand this part - if you've already drawn the shape and have the model how you want it then you're finished with the drawing part, then you take the model into your CAM program and have it generate toolpaths.

Do you mean that you need some guidance on how to work the Vectric Cut3D software? I think that Vectric has their own forums over here: http://www.vectric.com/forum/ if you need help working Cut3D you probably want to ask over there.

- Michael

Hi Tony, one other design software/hardware combination you might want to look into is the Sensable system: http://www.sensable.com/ - that's pretty expensive but it combines a hardware 3D pen like device with some sculpting software and it might be the easiest to use solution for you to be able to model some sculptured type shapes with a lower learning curve.

- Michael

Thanks.
About 6 wks ago I tried overlaying a picture to help with the drawing as Micheal had suggested. But I did not understand the front,top,right windows as much then, so I will try that again.
I know that cutting 2D is way short of the end result but at least it would let me use the cnc machine to save time on the initial steps I currently do with hand tools, while getting more familiar with Cut3D and Mach3.
I have been on the Cut3D forum and will be again as I am having trouble getting the tabs correct to protect the fixtures that hold the left and right side of the stock.

This wkend I hope to make time to work more on this.

Tony

Hopefully I will have a chance this wkend to get the pictures put in the right place and see if I can post the file. I will also get the measurements.

Tony

Ok, I hope I have the attachment here. I am not sure how to position the 3 pictures.
I will describe this as I am looking down on the table.
The left side is 5" front to back and 1.8" thick (Z axis). The back goes to the right 7.5" ( the z axis is 1.2" thick at 7.5" from the right) and tapers 2.5 degrees to the front where it meets the arc,which is 3" across and 1.5" deep. (I assume the arc will be used for this step).
The left front goes to the right 6.5" and tapers to the back 11 degrees before the next arc is used to meet the flat slanted portion of the grip (this flat area will be cut before the cnc is used). The grooves on the right side are not fussy since these are custom fitted afterwards, but I would like to remove some of the excess wood in front of the grooves. The arc on the back right side can be ignored since this will be shaped before going on the cnc machine.
The bottom side will be cut the same.

Thanks for the encouragement.

Tony

Hey Tony!

You have to embed the images in the 3DM-file..right now there are just LINKS to those images and not the actual images

Just open your file in Moi and go to VIEW->IMAGE and set EMBED IMAGE DATA for each of those images via the PROPERTIES dialog.







~ Marco

Thanks for telling me how to do this step. This should be better.

Tony

Hi Tony,


Here is a quick sketch of your measurements.
Cannot understand the arc location without pictures...
It might help to provide the center to center spacing of the two butt bolts,
Also the overall length from butt to trigger end, say at 90 degrees from the butt line.
The length from the butt to the flat at the (top or bottom?) of hand grip also.
Then the pictures could be scaled.

Hi Tony,

The 3dm still shows up, for me, with no pictures...