Make It With MoI
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 From:  Marc (TELLIER)
4388.101 In reply to 4388.100 
Cool shape!

Marc
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 From:  Mike K4ICY (MAJIKMIKE)
4388.102 In reply to 4388.101 
Thanks!

There was lots of Boolean Trimming and Fillets.
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 From:  Frenchy Pilou (PILOU)
4388.103 
Design!
---
Pilou
Is beautiful that please without concept!
My Gallery
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 From:  Mike K4ICY (MAJIKMIKE)
4388.104 In reply to 4388.102 
I thought I'd present more view pics before having to clear the work.
I love retro-looking stuff. :-)

More detail...
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 From:  wzhang
4388.105 
Wow, great stuff. This thread has me teeming with inspiration..

Thank you!
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 From:  Mike K4ICY (MAJIKMIKE)
4388.106 In reply to 4388.105 
No: Thank you wzhang!

Seeing others find even a little interest and usefulness in my MoI discoveries gives me more fire to create!

There appears to be an immense amount of potential with MoI. It's easy to learn and use. I mean, I remember making things in it the first day I installed the trial.

It's interface is deceptively rudimentary, but you find it gives you much power to envision whatever design is on your mind.

I somehow think that even Michael is occasionally amazed by what we unlock from his creation.

...though, he may know what we design, even before we do! ( ;-) lol! what a nice plug...)
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 From:  Mike K4ICY (MAJIKMIKE)
4388.107 
Push-Button:

Say you need a rounded push-button shape, and you may be looking for a more organic shape - not a box. - And not flat on top, but smooth!
You'd start by making the general button shape from either four conic curves or freeform splines.

You could perform an Extrude to raise the shape and then add Fillets to the top edge. You could even control the curvature of the Fillet.
However, you are limited since the radius of the Fillet could never exceed that of the depth of the button extrude and that limits how far into the center
of the button you want the top to be smoothed. This leaves the top to be very flat.

Here are four additional methods in MoI:



A - Loft
Copy the master ring profile a few times upwards in Z until you reach the top. Make a copy by scaling it inwards.
A few extra rings at the bottom will force a more straight shape.
Perform a Loft and choose the "Loose" option so that the loft will interpolate it's new smooth shape.
Make sure to turn "Cap Ends" on.
Note the points structure. Very basic. Plus! You can go back and change the ring's position to change the loft shape.

B - Blend
Extrude the profile ring on the bottom a little to provide an edge for the Blend to launch off of in a tangent.
Make a scaled down copy of the ring at the top.
You can only Blend from single edge curves to single edge curves, so trimming or splitting your top planar face will be needed (as shown).
Blend the edge of the bottom to the flat face edge on top.
Do this for all four sides. The sides of the Blend should match. You can tweak the bulge shape before committing.

C - Rail Revolve
Very simple and the easiest way.
Make a side profile that starts at a bottom point and ends in the center at the top.
Select the rail when performing the revolve and you can adjust the profiles afterwords to tweak the overall button shape.
Not only is this the easiest way, but if you notice the points, they are really simple.
One drawback: Often times you'll notice slight bunching or pinching in the center axis area.
Since I used simple Conic curves, this is not a problem here. But the more points you construct the major bottom profile with the more
points you'll have trying to connect to the center. - This becomes a problem when you want to do things like weld or emboss type on the button face.
So in that case, a button top defined with a more consistent grid point system is favorable.

D - Network Mesh
The bottom profile is split into two halves and the halves are connected with a succession of bridging network profiles sections.
This method will produce the most uneven look and surface consistency, and is harder to formulate.
But the top surface as you can see, is the best for trimming in detail. You can see that the bunching is confined to the lesser seen side-bottoms.
And you can more easily tweak in small convolution details for a more natural look.

There you go, four or five ways to skin a cat.

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 From:  Mike K4ICY (MAJIKMIKE)
4388.108 In reply to 4388.107 
Additionally:



Two other methods include:

Fillet
You'll get a nice look as expected, but the top may be left majorly flat and you sometimes end up with the multiple panels as Fillet negotiated the shape.

Rail-Revolve (Michael's Alien Foot Style)
You've seen Michael use this method for making the foot on the alien in his tutorial.
If you use only half of the bottom ring and perform a Rail Revolve using the side profile (that reaches from one side to the other)
You'll get a very nice shape along with a good clean top point structure.

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 From:  Mike K4ICY (MAJIKMIKE)
4388.109 
Piped Ring Jewelry: Using Points, Array on Path, 3 pt Arc and Sweep


I was intrigued by this Rhino tutorial by a fellow named Cosef at jewelturk.net.
http://www.rhino3dhelp.com/tutorials/modeling-piped-ring-jewelry-in-rhino/
He made good use of reference snap Points and a special Boolean Intersection case.
I wanted to see how the same thing could be done in MoI.

So I followed his tutorial with MoI ease.

1) In front view - Make your circles and a cool outside ring shape using some arcs or whatever you wish.


2) Go to right view - make an arc to represent the sweeping look of the side of the ring.


3) Here's the special Boolean Intersection case: take your inner circle and intersect it with the single side arc.
Cool.... copy and past the new shape's outer curve to just get the loop, which will now have a potato chip shape.


4) Go ahead and round the corners over.
This doesn't affect the final shape of the ring too much, but you may need it to be nice and smooth later if you add detail.


5) Place a Point (the points by themselves tool) on the top center of each profile loops.


6) Use Array to Curve to magically send the points around these profile loops. Choose the same number for each. I used 32.


7) Mirror the side set to make a match opposite the center ring.


8) Here are the arrayed reference points...


9) Place the 3 pt Arcs - Note the arrangement and order: The first click in on a given point. The second on the next point in order on the opposing loop.
The third is on a point on the center loop. This one is your choice, as it will determine the swing and look of the pipes.


10) The guy used some kind of smart repeat feature, but I'm sure the added programming for esoteria like that would be like feeding an infant a monster burger.
You'll have to go talk to "old Emanuel" here, matching every point combo with a 3 pt arc. Just drink something soothing, sit back and get into your work.
MoI was designed to bring Zen to your soul. ;-)


11) Here you'll create a circle or rounded rectangle to sweep on each arc.


12) Proceed with each arc.


13) Final set... looks like an alien rib cage.


14) Sweep a slightly larger circle around the two outer side loops. I say larger, because when using the same diameter, welding the arc pipes with the side ring pipes caused problems and some arc pipes disappeared. Using larger side pipes gave the union more breathing room.


15) Boolean Union the arc pipes to the side loop pipes for a finished look. You don't have to for a render, but it can be done if you want to fillet the joints.


16) Scale that center ring down a bit.


17) Trim the inside of the ring to make a flat area for a finger.


18) Add a little Fillet to catch some light glints in a render and for added comfort for a virtual ring finger. ;-)


19) Export and render in something "blingy"!



Well, it's a good copy-cat of that guy's Rhino piped ring.

The above shot was screen-captured with a few different MoI view lighting settings, and I went to town in Photoshop to get a gold look.

Eat your heart out Ed... ;-) (Ah yes, watch how I attempt to enter the realm of the master!)

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 From:  ed (EDDYF)
4388.110 In reply to 4388.109 
Yeah - That's pretty cool MM. Just need some gold wire and a jeweler's laser welder to make it happen :) BTW - I made and shipped a ring today with gold inlays. The price of gold has gone up so high, so fast, the customer gained some appreciation between the time he ordered and the time it shipped.

Got a feeling we're going to see some really neat stuff here when the deformation tools arrive. Keep those tutorials coming.

Ed
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 From:  Mike K4ICY (MAJIKMIKE)
4388.111 In reply to 4388.110 
Thanks Ed. Yes! I can't wait to try out the flow along path tool.
That's some skill set to work with the good stuff...
BTW, I'll consider you the next time I get to buy a ring. ;-)
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 From:  ed (EDDYF)
4388.112 In reply to 4388.111 
There's a couple of those "bird cage" style rings in the jewelry render gallery on KeyShot. One has a stone set into a round bezel supported by the curved wires.

I attached a 3dm of a diamond if you have a need for it. Got it a long time ago off this forum.

I'd buy a copy of MoI before a ring. Make lots of money off your modeling talent - then go shopping :)

Ed
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 From:  Mike K4ICY (MAJIKMIKE)
4388.113 In reply to 4388.112 
I know! Right? ;-)

Thanks for the model!
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 From:  BurrMan
4388.114 In reply to 4388.113 
Hi Magic,
Did you know that if you right clcik the MoI viewport it will perform the last command again??? FYI
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 From:  Michael Gibson
4388.115 In reply to 4388.109 
Hi Mike,

> 10) The guy used some kind of smart repeat feature, but
> I'm sure the added programming for esoteria like that would
> be like feeding an infant a monster burger.

Check out the LineWeb plugin for MoI here:
http://moi3d.com/forum/display.php?webtag=MOI&msg=3700.2

That basically automates that process of making evenly spaced points across several curves and connecting them either with lines or curves.

Basically plug-ins are the method that I use to add in various special case helper tools like that - that way it's something that advanced users can install to help them out but it doesn't complicate the regular default UI.

In the future I want to make a better system for downloading and installing plug-ins like a plug-in browser or something like that.

There are a variety of them listed on Petr's page here:
http://kyticka.webzdarma.cz/3d/moi/

- Michael
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 From:  BurrMan
4388.116 In reply to 4388.114 
Here's one for you also... If you look at the resources-petr's MoI page, find the "LineWeb" Script...



Nice modeling once again!

EDITED: 19 Jun 2012 by BURRMAN

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 From:  BurrMan
4388.117 In reply to 4388.116 
He's fast like lightning... Foiled again by Michael and his Rabbit... :o
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 From:  Michael Gibson
4388.118 In reply to 4388.117 
bwahahaha you got slowed down by making a screenshot! But that means your post looks nicer than mine too though... ;)
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 From:  BurrMan
4388.119 In reply to 4388.118 
Nah... Your posts are always way more informative and correct...

Actually, I was using loft to get my seam point of my curves to line up... I followed Majics model method, then when i went to use the Lineweb, Of course I had to use the flip command with the objects that were mirrored, but the seam point of my curves were slightly in rotation to each other, and my lineweb was scewing...

I lofted the curves and used the seam alignment of the loft command to get a straight seam, then extracted those curves from the loft to use for LineWeb.....

Maybe some kind of means to look at and align a "curves" seam position?? (I think we discussed this before?)
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 From:  BurrMan
4388.120 In reply to 4388.119 
Heres a sample file with the twist from the curves seam point I was talking about... If you lineweb these, you will see it.. I used loft-Straight to create a surface where I used the lofts seem point aligner... Then extracted the edges from that surface to use Lineweb.

EDITED: 19 Jun 2012 by BURRMAN

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