I'm using v2, and thanks again for the help.

Bob

Hi Bob,

Probably closer to what you want?

Yes sir, that looks perfect.

Hi Bob,

OK.

The model I posted in my last post does have the construction curves (In the styles, "Red"), I will go through the construction here.


I first construction lines around the head (from the original seam down (perpendicular) to the opposite face)



Then trimmed away/ removed what was not needed.



I then copied the 4 curved edges shown in red (Selected the edges, then "Copy" / "Paste")




Then. at the top of the neck at the intersection of the seam and end edge, I created a line that was perpendicular along the X



Using that last line created and the curve shown (that was created earlier from the curved edge), I used "Blend" (G1) to create a blending curve.



I then created another line from the top of the neck seam/edge intersection (as I did before), but this time making the line go in the opposite direction, then used that line and the other top curve (as shown in pic) to create another blending G1 curve



I then copied the 2 edges of the neck shown in yellow (again, by selecting the edges then use "Copy" / "Paste")



Then I used blend (G2) to blend the lines on each side as shown.



I then selected the edge of the head and the 2 G1 curves (shown in yellow) and used "Network" to create the top surface.



I then selected the bottom G2 curve (created before) and selected the 3 edges (I hid the curves that where there and selected the surface edges), then used "Network" to create that side surface.

I then repeated the above, and created a Network on the opposite side (using the other G2 curve and surface edges shown)



Then I created a network for the bottom surface using the edges shown.




- Steve

Dont forget to look at the surface to surface fillet to get some good results. Although this method will always require some cleanup on the ends of the surfaces





Just boolean union your hard profiles to create the edge, then seperate the surfaces and run the fillet command

Also Bob, you asked for some tips. In the couple previous files you've posted, your curves have been "Messy". Little fragments and non joined edges/points. Review creating continuous curves and possibly learn the "Rebuild" command if it's just a function of how you like to draw. You will get cleaner and more workable surfaces if you work on this area a bit.

FYI

Steve, thank you very much for the help. I was able to rebuild the headstock. There are a few wonky areas that need to be cleaned up , but it's pretty close to where I want it to be. Again, that was a very helpful tutorial. Burr, yes I'm sloppy with rebuild curve, sometimes I remember most times I don't. I'll have to pay more attention to it. And thank you for the fillet tip. That's a big help as well. I'll spend some more time with it tonight.

Thanks again,

Bob

Hey Bob,
Also, here is another method to look at for future projects. Remember that working in patches is going to make it much harder. Steve is very good with modeling and probably has a few years of experience in it.

A better way to get good results is to use "solids" and cut them up to make your object. Here is an example file I made. I didnt use your curves but it will illustrate getting shapes with great surfacing in a much simpler fashion. This headstock is a bit off from yours, but if you look at the setup on the blanked layer, you can see how easy it was and could adjust some curves to get an exact result.

Anyway, just more food for thought.

A nice mini-tutorial there - thank you Steve.

Dan

Here it is after cleaning up the cuts a bit.

couple more:

>>A better way to get good results is to use "solids" and cut them up to make your object.<<

Starting from solids is a good way to go.

A very quick example with solids using booleans/fillets

That one is much better Steve. Watching for more from you. Thanks.

Very cool Burr. That would be a great neck for a funky looking electric. Steve, thanks for the continued lessons. I have a lot to learn, but at least now I know that what I want to do is possible. BTW, although my modeling skills are weak, if anyone wants to model a guitar of their own I can help (mainly acoustic but some electric experience) or point you to info for accurate scale lengths and dimensions for fretboards, necks, bridges, body shapes, etc...

Bob

>>>>or point you to info for accurate scale lengths and dimensions for fretboards, necks, bridges, body shapes, etc...>>>

I could dig it!

Here's some acoutic info.
From Martin Guitar
Body shapes: http://www.mguitar.com/guitars/choosing/size.html
Neck cross section and sound box bracing patterns: http://www.mguitar.com/guitars/features/index.html
Fret and bridge placement caluclator (acoustic or electric): http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator
Fret shapes and dimensions: http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Fretting&NameProdHeader=+Fretwire

General info (mostly acoustic):
Tops and backs .100 to .125" thick. Sides ~.080" thick. Fretboards ~.250 at thickest point. Neck with fretboard ~.875" thick at 1st fret, ~30/32" thick at 10th fret. Headstock is .5 to .6" thick.
Acoustic guitar tops and backs are not flat. Tops have a radius of 25 to 30 ft, backs from 12 to 20 ft. Martin fretboards usually have 16" radius, Gibson is 12" I believe. Strings, the 1st and 6th, are usually placed so there is .125" clearance between the outside edge of the string and the fretboard edge. The remaining strings are placed so there is an even gap between all of them. Bridges are usually ~.375" thick at the center point and the top is arched at ~20" radius, the saddle extends another .125". The standard "belly" bridge is 6" wide, the wings are 1" tall and the belly is 1.5" tall. Headstocks are usually angled ~15* (not the 30* of my original drawing, d'oh). Necks do not join the body at a 90* angle. The heel is angled from 1 to 2* to produce the following: a line drawn down the middle of the top of the fretboard should be ~.375" above the body at the point that would be the center of the saddle. String action: first fret high E ~.012" above the fret, low E ~.023". At the neck joint the high E s/b ~ .090" above the fret and the low E ~ .110". For the really retentive, fretboards are not flat. There's a gradual "relief" or dip from 3rd to ~10th fret that maxes out ~ .010. From the neck joint and higher the board would fall away by ~.010-.020".

How's that for a start.

Bob