Hi Ed,

> Thanks Michael - I'm going to try making a relief pattern in
> Zsurf on a cylinder, then boolean it with a same-size ring in MoI.

One note on this - since you will be dealing with an open surface with the ZSurf generated bit, you may need to use the Trim command to cut the cylinder and leave a hole, then use Join to glue the pieces together, rather than using booleans.

Booleans are more oriented towards working on volumes, so they may not understand which pieces to keep and remove automatically if you are working on open surfaces.

But Trim works on the surface skin of objects only so it's more what you use (along with Join at the end) when you're working on surfaces instead of volumes.

- Michael

Hi Joe,
The idea for creating the Z level curves would be to use them in your cam package as profile operations. No surfacing.

But with the smaller increments, things like lofting between those curves may work much better. (I didnt test it though)

If you just wanted to see the model through to the end in 3d, then "Planar" would fill in the top (All points need to be level in Z)

Hi Burr,

My cnc system uses proprietary software and cuts complex curves as raster lines. (CarveWright) I will have to play around and see if I can get it to cut a profile by using a series of vector lines. As a result I will more than likely have to use planar to fill in as a solid. Any difference in depth would be picked up and possibly affect the height map.

You did mention that there was a step over formula to calculate width and height of cut based on tool diameter? What would be the correct name of this formula that I could google.

I have tried tool bit step over and step over formula.

Thanks

Joe

Hi Joe,
So can Carvewright create a toolpath from this?



If so, then I was suggesting making curves from those sections that would look like this




Then when you cut each curve, it would cut at its own depth and create a "step".



This is the step I was talking about.




If the part is 1 inch high, and the spacing of each level is .8 and you use a .5 ballnose cutter, then the ridges in between each level will be at some hight. The more levels, or curves, the finer the step and the smoother the surface (The longer the cut time). Less curves and levels is faster cut time, then you just pull the piece off the machine and do a quick sand or grind to smoth the toolpath edges away.

It's not a formula I mentioned, just a decision to be made on how you want to cut it.

Also, after doing some experimenting with this to show you, it becomes more apparent that it's harder to implement than I'm making it sound. It would require working the curves a bit to get a good profile. May be better off just going the hieghtmap software route.

Hi Burr,

Yes, that is how I imagined it. That is how CarveWright would cut a series of vector tool paths. But I see what you mean. I tried to lay out a series of character outlines in order to try to sweep them. But it was very hard to space them apart. I will try you suggestion on using the array of profiles. CarveWright would then cut this as a raster pattern. But the nice thing it that Raster patterns can be re-sized very easily.

If that does not work than I will try to create some height maps in Paint Shop Pro or one of the packages mentioned here on the forum.

I will post my designs when I work them all out. If I am lucky I will also include a a cut piece as well.

Thanks for all of the help.

Joe

Good luck Joe!
I feel I was starting to make it more complicated than it should be. I have one other suggestion I'll post in a bit.

Nevermind. Too Nutty!

Hi Joe,

My work is jewellery sized, so this following idea is solely based on that...forgive me if it doesn't apply to your situation.

Given that I required a certain type of angle or taper to the design, I'll often just use a specific Cutter which has that specific angle.
I source most of these Conical/Taper shaped Cutters from Bits & Bits http://www.bitsbits.net/
For milling waxes to suit jewellery work I'm mostly using the Profile or Pyramid type Cutters with a 6, 10 or 15 degree angle.

The range of Engraving Cutters have more angle options & might be more suited to your needs?
Not sure what Shank size you'd use with the CarveWright system, but maybe this might give you an idea for viable Cutters available to you?

regards Colin

Thanks for the tip Colin, I can use 1/2", 1/4" or 1/8" shanks. That might be worth a try. I could extrude the surface and then mill around the outside with a profile shaped bit. The only concern I may have is if the bit has to go in between a narrow section or the inside or a radius curve.

Thanks

Joe

Seems we have forget a very speedy method!
The rail revolve!
Just find an a good vertical axis

Thanks Pilou,

Could you briefly explain how you created the rail revolve?

Thanks

Joe

Hope this help ;)
Position of the vertical (or not) axis must be chosen following result wanted!

Yes Pilou, that is IMHO the best sulution.
My English is too bad, in order to explain it better.
We use .*eps (Rails) whenever we can, it significantly shortens the creation time.

Pilou - Thanks for demonstrating the Rail Revolve.

I don't know if Rail Revolve is intended for this application, but in some ways it works better than fillet because it seems to work in tight V shape corners.

However I tried it on a similar shape and also got a result where the profile curve cuts into the shape in some areas (see red arrow) in your example.

Do you know how to get the profile to work in this situation?

Ed

It's the result of the placement of the first point of the axis!
As it's not a symmetric figure sides can be curvated!
But as you can rotate the volume this can be hidden for 2D illustration ;)
Or find another place or angle for the axis !
Or rotate the profil!

It would be nice to have a function called Bevel that would take a plane and extrude while applying a radius profile. You can do the same using extrude plus fillet, except fillet doesn't work well in tight V shape areas because the profile wants to fold back on itself. Is variable radius fillet the answer here?

I'm just thinking out loud here, but I often want to take a shape like the Kanji Characters and turn them into solids with nice rounded edges, regardless of the shape. Much like cutting the shape out of flat aluminum stock and letting it run in the tumbler for a couple of days. The analogy is that in a tumbler, the edges that stick out will get rounded more than the tight recesses that are not as exposed to the tumbling media.

Ed

Hi Ed, I do want to add a function called "Tapered extrude" which I think is what you are talking about. Originally I had hoped to include this for v2 but it does not look like that will happen currently, so probably in v3.

You can actually get the same result though currently by using Offset on the curve, then moving the offset in the Z direction and doing a Loft. Check out this previous post for an example:
http://moi3d.com/forum/index.php?webtag=MOI&msg=941.5

- Michael

Ed,
Blend will make a nice edge around this charater, but the thickness is limited to where it will fold in on itself. SO the original thickness couldnt be acheived using this.

Make a duplicate character and move it up a bit in Z, then planar both and delete the curves. Now select edges of the 2 surfaces and blend. You'll have to drop the value down till it fits nicley.

Pilou's solution will work also, you'll just have to toolpath "both sides" to get the opposing direction "fillets", but it could still make a nice cut. Good catch Pilou!

Thanks Pilou for the great example of rail revolve.

Michael, Thanks for the "Taper Extrude" link.

Joe

Hello All,

Just wanted to pass on a finished carve image of my Chinese character.
Until I get up to speed on Moi and ZBrush I ended up using another package to create the bevel on the character.

I also wanted to thank everyone for all of the great assistance.

Thanks

Joe