And here, I open up the cut a little more:



This allows for a better G2 Crease, and more defined. It will also allow me to use a "Lessor" amount, and get more of a fade!

It should be enough to give you something to play with...

that's a cool trick burrman. i learned something new today. i used what you showed to at least get the needed curves. rhino being what it is, it screws up the blend quality. but i was able to extract the curves, delete the blend and use either 2 rail sweep or network. both produced good results.

just a note. some of the intial curves don't line up and are not in a plane. i was just trying to work with the original geometry. i had to do a lot of tricks just to get the 3d curves shown. to do this better i would make all new curves that line up properly. then use what burrman showed.

here's an update with new curves. all surfaces were made with curve network except for one. that was done with planar curves. with the updated curves you can mirror the geometry easily. i used what burrman showed to get the beam/crease/bump. i got the missing curves from that step.

Edit; fixed the curves some more. The front curve for the top of the hood is odd. It's from the original curve. It's hard to change at this point, without screwing a bunch of stuff up. But this at least gives the general idea.

In many cases I think the approach here is wrong. I would suggest that you model the whole side of the car, without wheel wells. Then you will have tangent surfaces. The fewer surfaces that you have to create, the fewer problems you will have to resolve. When you have what you want, it is simple to 'Trim' the wheel wells and doors. In the same way, it is often easier to extend a surface beyond what is desired and then 'Trim' it to get the end result. 'Network' has a tendency to go a little off at edges, especially if there is much curvature, and if you extend the surface and then cut off the area near the edge you will sometimes get a better result. Things like fender flares can be added later, and as shown, you can make a surface outside of the model that will let you use 'Blend' between that and the surface-to-keep. If you do have two surfaces that do not go together properly, try 'Project'ing curves onto both surfaces. 'Rebuild' the points on these curves, to get the minimum number that will keep the shape that you desire. Where curves come together at an intersection, adjust the points on either side of the intersection so that they will be in-line, i.e. a straight line will connect three points, the middle point on the intersection. Then you can use 'Network' and all should be good. Regretfully, it takes a lot of experience before one has a certain "feel" for the process.

As a side note. Here is a video of car surface modeling. His dialogue boxes have dialogue boxes to point to control dialogues, to get to a particular setting. He is using commands like "pull this edge to this particular point, with my specified knot weight....

https://youtu.be/sXYtVoODTYY

Dont feel bad that it is hard to recreate in MoI....

I dont have an extra 30k for this either!

Right on Tim. Here here....

I've been helping over e-mails as well and the approach I'm suggesting is to make areas that have one broad shape that should be smooth out of larger extended surfaces and then the transition between them is done by fillets.

That can go something like this:

Sweep:


Network:


Surface/surface fillet:


Trim all to these common cutting lines:






- Michael

Pretty cool stuff.

I would also conquer for Tony that even if "beam crease" detail works for him, that THIS (Michaels demonstration) is really more what he should be working towards....

2 cents

Meanwhile, thanks to Burrman for all the valuable advice ..... as for Michael's approach, it is very valid and I tried it directly on the model .... but, certainly because of me, it does not give me back the shape right.

The space between the upper quadrant of the mudguard and the small one is why the shape is not found .... if you see the space of the fold (mirror side) it is practically nothing .... if I use the sweep to create that small space then not I can get to the bigger bend ..... obviously maybe it's me who doesn't know the right technique .... that's why I'm asking for help :)

The fact is that if you need a surface passing troughs a ideal shape you need to make the construction lines to guide your surfaces, with moi3d you can do well that but not in magic way but drawings the nurbs curve that define the boundary of your shapes.

A car Moi Tuto by Ed
http://moi3d.com/forum/index.php?webtag=MOI&msg=7389.1

Thanks Pilou for the tutorial .... my problem is bodywork because everything else is able to shape it (or at least I think :)) in particular that front bumper and the rear part (which however seems to have almost succeeded). ... but the front just can't do it :)

The problem with Michael's approach is that it is too simple. I said this in the case of a sailboat hull. If you just want something that sort of looks like something, you can use a simple method. But real hulls and real car bodies have very complex shapes that require a more difficult method. The beauty of MOI is that it gives us the tools to create Any form, and thereby get what We want, and not just a mathematical convenience. The trouble with most of these car and boat models is that the guys are working from 2D pictures and they really don't know what the "right" shape should be. If you have a lot of photos of the real thing, you can make it look right, but it's going to be a long, difficult process. But I don't want to discourage anyone. The satisfaction that comes from doing anything is proportional to the difficulty. What I want to tell those who are interested in this work is that MOI is the right tool, you just have to learn to use it.

Hi Tim .... what technique would you use to draw it?

Another approach

Hi Tony

A good idea could be to post the entire car, i mean the picture you posted in the beginning,not just a part of it
Are you modeling a real car or a concept?
Burr,as usual,showed us a good solution
I suggest you to follow Zarkow's method,it allow you to do more complex shapes,like actual cars
You have also ED's method,using Max Subd inside Moi
Here two links to other methods
take a look at the Vimeo video inside first to have more ideas

http://moi3d.com/forum/index.php?webtag=MOI&msg=5601.1

http://moi3d.com/forum/index.php?webtag=MOI&msg=6512.1

Once again,this is modeling for fun,not for manufactoring ;)


M

Hi Mauro ... here is the whole car

https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Peugeot_206_02.jpg

and thanks for the tutorials .... really be done !!

I keep repeating there are no tricks, but only a lot of construction work, this example is made trying to create decent curves for the contours of the surfaces, it is nothing exceptional but it makes you understand the right method, I see many who propose work flows, with subdivision surfaces but so you lose any kind of precision in creating surfaces ..

And the last thing take a look on the professional high-end software for car surfacing like ICEM surf or alias, below some video where you can see the hard work needed to get a well smoothed surfaces.

icem surf bmw x6 2009 side repeater modeling


Autodesk Alias Tutorial - Car Modeling in Alias Part 1

Zarkow. Yes, Zarkow. Find the Zarkow video's.

His work is very clean.