Hi Neil,
Came across this method on YouTube.
May have some use.
https://youtu.be/1kP546QJ_YQ
Barry

Actually it was Mat that suggested the network and I was asking him how he did it because my results were mixed. The best method I've seen so far for neck transitions is the one you've presented Barry - I just need to practice and get better at it.

That's cool - a fellow guitar builder gave me Aspire as a gift - but I've not learned to use it yet. I really want to make MOI my main modeling program.

Mat10x do you have any examples of how you do necks? Thanks, N

Hi Neil,

I don't have a neck example but I think the attached models I built may illustrate the use of "Network".

I use "curve network surface" or "network" all time for surfaces that need to come together under very specific dimensions, with clean transitions from one surface to another. Automotive design, lots of surface transitions, same idea.

The volute is a good example. Couple surfaces coming together at that one intersection. The English guy in the YouTube video also used "Curve Network Surface" (as he used Rhino 3D) or "Network" (in MOI) for his volute.

As a guitar player and Industrial Designer...I'd prefer to specify the volute surface dimensions rather then just "blend" them together.

Just my .02 cents.

Hope that helps!

Mat

Some of your stuff looking dan electro esq!!!

Nice!

Hey Matt!

Thanks for the reply - the problem I have with networking is getting things solid. Seems my necks are always hollow when I use the networking command - see attached. Also - what do you do about seams or lines between the pieces you network? Thanks for the suggestion - would like to get better at this.

Dan Electro? Really? I don't see that at all. But if it's a compliment I'll take it!! :)

Wow those models are awesome Matt! How do you do that without getting seams or gaps? Practice right! :)

Hey Neil,

Your heel surfaces are not aligned with each other. Double check the alignment of your curves. All surfaces must be aligned to each with no gaps...to create what's called a "water tight" model...a true solid.

Hope that helps!

Mat

Yep, lots of practice...just like learning to play the guitar. ;) Always something new to learn in MOI...or guitar!

The forum here is a great resource. The guys here are incredibly helpful.

M

Yeah Neil,
The longhorn and a couple of the other full bodied ones...

I knew Nat. it WAS meant as a good comment.

To Burrman - Thank you sir!! Much appreciated.

Thank you Matt - will work on tightening things up. There are several snap to settings which is best for networking? What I mean is do you have Straight Snap, Grid Snap and Object snap all on or do you use only one or two?

Hello Mat10x,

Here is the CNC I just finished building - haven't wired it up yet hope to do that this weekend. It's a real tank. Also attached a few more rock oriented guitars I built over the years - sorry about the quality on some of the pictures and more importantly many thanks for your help and suggestions!

Wow, that full mahogany one is awesome !

Hey Neil,

Yeah post up your neck when you have it rebuilt. Love to see how it turns out.

The 3 "snaps"...I use all 3...but for different needs. Make a simple cube or basic curves to build off of and play with all 3 snaps to see what they do and when you need them.

Snaps are not just for "network"...they're for building in general. Must have tools for keeping things aligned and properly positioned as you build.

M

Hey super nice Neil!

First and second image? Mahogany with Macassar fretboard? Love the contoured heel. No contouring on backside of the lower horn to match?

Not sure how I feel about the drop headstock though. Why no tilt back or just a straight headstock?

Might have to call you about doing a custom. Love to design a body, neck, headstock...and have some body route it for me.

Lookin' good!

M

Just finished building my second CNC machine tonight - here's a first run "air cut" . . . had no issues - ran a 45 minute cycle without a hitch.