Hi Michael.

@You : "...I just finished up getting everything except text labels (which I'm leaving out for the first release)..."

What's this "text labels" you are referring to ?

@You : "...If it looks like it might take a while I guess I could leave the line drawing ugly for the first release..."

I think this shouldn't be a problem :)

Have a nice day.

Hi Marco,

> What's this "text labels" you are referring to ?

It's the little tag labels that show up on snap points like "End" or "End, Mid, Cen, Int" that tell you the type of snap that's engaged when you're picking points.

It will be coming back, it just won't be in the first beta release. Text can be kind of complicated in 3D accelerated graphics there isn't just one built in way to do it there are a variety of different methods with different trade-offs.

- Michael

Thanks for the info Michael.

@You : "...Text can be kind of complicated in 3D accelerated graphics there isn't just one built in way to do it there are a variety of different methods with different trade-offs..."

I understand. No problem.

Ciao!

Hi Metin, Chipp or Marco

i looked up the 3DCoat site on how to mask (flat) areas of a surface and found a thread there which is unfortunately closed.

@Metin have you found already a way to mask with automatic fill (in my case flat areas) so that you can refine
unmasked sculpted areas? In ZBrush this is super easy, but when i try this in 3DCoat (because i like to try out something
there too) i don't know how to do it. I first thought to do it in the paint room, with fill and freeze activated, bit it fills
the whole area, even if i set it to convex or concave or flat etc. ... :-(

In case you guys have a solution i would be quite happy.

My attached pic shows what i mean, i used the Tiger from freepik.com, cleaned it up in MoI and then used
the region-relief tool on the parts with ArtForm Pro 4.0 and finally brought the model into ZBrush for auto masking
and refining the non-masked areas.

(dark brown areas are the auto masked areas)

Regards
Stefan

Hi Stefan!

@You : "...Looked up the 3DCoat site on how to mask (flat) areas of a surface...@


I'm not sure I understand well, but there are in 3DCoat at least a couple of main tools that you can use to "mask" areas :

1) "Vox Hide" in Voxel Mode

2) "Freeze" in Surface Mode

Both tools work in tandem with the "Freeze" and "Geometry" menu :






You can use these commands to perform very sophisticated editing of voxels/surfaces

Here's a very basic and rough example on how to use the "Freeze" tool to "mask" flat areas.
The key is to switch from perspective to "orthographic" view.

The video : http://take.ms/sULSP



But I don't know if I understood your question correctly :)

Let me know.

Ciao!

Marco (mkdm)

Hi Marco,

thanks a lot for your help! This is what i mean! Is this also somehow possible
when let's say the model is not flat and you have raised areas and want to mask
the lower areas (in an automated way, without painting with brushes) ?

Best regards
Stefan

Interesting indeed, thanks Marco! I still have to dive into the Freeze functions.

Hi Stefan.

You're welcome!

@You : "...Is this also somehow possible ...(in an automated way, without painting with brushes) ?"

Well...this is a bit tricky I think!
For what I know there's no completely automation for this kind of things in 3DCoat.

But one of the things that you can try and that is semi-automated, is using one specific tool in "Paint Room"

That tool will allow you to decide on what "kind" of surface you want to paint on (or freeze).

This is a very coarse and rough tutorial I made on the fly : http://take.ms/wjnlsC

You can start with it and make practicing on that tool.

Ciao!

You're welcome Metin.


Ciao!

Thanks Marco, much appreciated.

I thought this would be also possible with the paint bucket tool
and with the fill w/ freeze option, but unfortunately it fills the
complete surface and not some areas, regardless of settings.

Best regards
Stefan

Hi!

@You : "...I thought this would be also possible with the paint bucket tool..."

This is true but there's a workaround.

Instead of Paint Bucket you can use the Standard Freeze tool with "Stroke Mode" set to "Rectangular" "Ignore Back faces" off , View Mode to "Parallel" and
playing with the different applying method.

Please watch this video : http://take.ms/XhWvv

Ciao!

That's what i was looking for. Thanks a lot Marco, for your help!

Best regards
Stefan

You're welcome Stefan.

But anyway...pay attention to the fact that, that method, requires a certain amount of manual tweaking in some situation.

Anyway...better than nothing :)

Ciao!

Hi James.

I write here to reply to your kind message at (http://moi3d.com/forum/index.php?webtag=MOI&msg=6925.353)
because I don't want to saturate the "V4 Wish List" thread with off topic arguments :)

First of all I thank you very much for sharing your personal experience and your opinion.
This helped me a lot!!

Believe me....this situation was driving me crazy!!!

@You : "...When I first used it I found the haptic feedback to be quite unnatural....rather just accept it is as it is...."

Well...

I've spent last two hours checking every single millimeters of this fucking iPad Pro's screen.
It is perfect in all aspects for what I can check with my eyes and my fingers.

So I decided to make a test more or less with the same method when I have to deal with software debugging :)

1) First I've cleaned up very well the entire surface of the iPad's screen with a good quality microfiber cloth.
2) Then, without touching with my left hand or fingers the screen, and with the right hand "armed" with a cotton glove,
I started to draw strokes with the pencil on every single centimeter of the screen (for this test I have left the screen "off" so it was totally black).
3) The stokes was good, rather smooth, without any humps/scratchy, tacky/draggy

Then I repeated the test in this way :

1) before start drawing I touched the screen in some areas with my left fingers to simulate pinch/zoom/pan
In this way that areas was "contaminated" by the natural "oil's skin"
2) I make some strokes starting from "clean" areaa through the "oily" areas and, in that zones, the Pencil was not fluid or smooth
as it was in clean zones. It feels humps/scratchy, tacky/draggy
3) I cleaned up those "olily" zones and the Pencil returned to be smooth.

So, also in the light of your suggestions, these are my actual considerations :

1) I had always been accustomed to classic Wacom tablets (not interactive display) like for example the superb Intuos Pro.
That drawing tablets have an excellent paper-like feel without any "fingerprint" or "oily" issues.

2) My experience of "drawing on glass" is very limited because sporadically I only made some little painting works on my "Lenovo P2" (Android smartphone)
with an "Adonit Mark" pencil that have a "mesh tip"
And my smartphone has a Gorilla Glass, so it's pretty different from the iPad's glass.

3) Nobody, in any of the dozens fucking forums that I read, nobody, talked about this "fingerprint" problem with the iPad's screen and Apple Pencil!!

OK. My very first temptation was to throw the iPad through the window (but it's very costly) :) :)

Well...

I understand that I have to change the way my "brain" feels this drawing experience on glass, and the iPad Pro 12.9 is a wanderful machine,
but I really hope that I will not be forced to clean up over and over the screen, because the Pencil on "oily" zones feels really bad for me.

Or maybe I will be forced to use an additional glove also for my left hand.
Some sort of glove that will prevent the screen from "smudging" and "oil" but keeping intact the "multitouch" capabilities.

I have to investigate.

Fortunately for my "mental health" I have better things to do because of my software developing daily job :)


Anyway...thank you very much again for your suggestion and have a nice day!

Ciao.

Marco (mkdm)

Marco, you (and your iPad pro) need a trick : https://getpaperlike.com/
and remember to gently wipe the screen or you will damage the protection coating…

Hi ycarry.

Thanks a lot for your suggestion.

Above all for this : "...and remember to gently wipe the screen..."

Regarding the first suggestion (the paperlike),
I first want to practicing with this new
"plastic on glass" drawing experience,
in order to change the way my brain deal with this
new situation.

If I will get too many trouble then I will try to use
a glove also for the left hand in order to
minimize the fingerprint and smudges,
and only if all things go wrong, I will get a product like "paperlike".

I need practice :)

Thanks again for your help.

Ciao!

Hi Marco,

Have you had a play with free version of Shapr3d?
Make sure you sign up for v3beta:

http://discourse.shapr3d.com/t/something-big-is-coming-and-we-cant-wait-to-share-it-with-you/928

It is notably different to its predecessor.

Have fun!
James

Hi James.

I have the iPad only for 36 hours but...yes, I downloaded also Shapr3D,
although I only had the time for a very quick tour.
But anyway I will for sure sign up for the beta.
Thanks for the tip!

Currently l’m learning the foundation of iOs 11 and familiarize myself with the Pencil on this kind of screen :)

Clearily, given that I bought this device mainly for digital painting, first of all I purchased two of the
best graphic Apps actually available for iOS,that is Affinity Photo and the amazing Procreate.
Ah....and also Pixelmator!

I’m hoping to get used to this pencil-on-glass feel (and pencil on oily zones), because this device is really “Pro” under many many aspects!!

Ciao!

Hi everyone.

Ok...this is not "opposite of Moi" but I didn't know where to write these lines :)

Doing a web search I accidentally clicked over this "accidental" link that (I suppose) is a very old Michael's doodle :

http://moi3d.com/gallery/viewitem.php?id=38&subid=5



Very nice.

Ciao!

Yes it was the tricky use of a simple Boolean Diff between a curve and a volume circonvoluted! :)