Full Version: Guitar neck and arch top methods

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Starting to get it (famous last words) - after blending everything - on this one - deleted the original headstock back and created a new back based on the edge of the middle blend then used the planar command - looks pretty good. :) Next after learning to blend consistently - then the trick will be getting the entire neck solid. Many thanks again to Michael and Jopo for all the help with this method. This is a good method for a beginner - not too complicated.

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Looking good Neil!

- Michael

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Looks good !

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That's it. Very nice!

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Looks great! I'd like to see a photo of that area as it comes straight off the CNC router (before sanding). Looks like you'll have minimal sanding to do.

Ed Ferguson

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Would like to thank the folks here for the support with learning to do this - everyone contributed their ideas, expertise, experience and honesty. This neck was made entirely in the stock MoI version 3 program using basic commands and only one script (naked edges). The neck model is good enough for milling - so after adding the tuning key holes - that is next - woo hoo! Again, sincere thanks for suggestions, guidance and hanging in there when I was discouraged.
This neck (for those interested) has no fretboard - spent years setting up jigs in the shop to slot, radius, install markers and even bend very quickly and efficiently so there is no point in drawing or modeling one. Most likely will add a truss rod channel in the future - but also currently have a jig for that that is used with the overarm router - also very fast.

What this training provides is a foundation for milling consistent, reliable neck profiles - that's what I'm talkin about! So this is just a starting point for further learning in sculpting neck profiles in MoI. Went back to Fusion a few times and found that I'm addicted to MoI. BTW, This is by far the highest quality forum around. Onward! :)

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Excellent result!

Maybe there's still a little bit of extra work to do here, but I don't know if it's only a screen capture glitch.





Anyway...good job!

Bravo!

Marco (mkdm)

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Bravo VG !

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Here is another closeup of the section Marco pointed out as a possible problem - it looks good from this angle.

Do models need to be as perfect for woodworking as they do for rendering? It may even be counterproductive - guitar necks (and bodies) have to be scraped and or sanded and then finished - the finish will have to be wet sanded and buffed - so a few tiny creases or bumps should not be a problem if the model is essentially correct. That said, will continue to strive for the best surfaces possible.

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Hi Neil,

> Do models need to be as perfect for woodworking as they do for rendering?

No I don't think so. You'd also want to generate a higher density mesh to really know what the surface is doing there. The realtime display mesh is more oriented towards generating stuff quickly. You can use it to get an idea of where to look closer but there are going to be various things that are just display artifacts.

One way you can do a high density view for more detailed checking is to export to an .obj file and slide the polygon density slider all the way to the right and then see what that shows, you can then cancel the export after you're done looking. If you like you can set up a shortcut key to do that so you can bypass the file name dialog. To do that set a shortcut like this where it's giving a file name as part of the shortcut:
SaveAs c:\bugs\test.obj

Make sure there's a space between the SaveAs and the filename.

I'd doubt that such a small nuance would come through any milling work though.

- Michael

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Hi Michael,

I'm confident if any of the experts here looked at this they will find issues. Question is - is it good enough to mill? So, here is the close up of the mesh - as you suggested. Being a beginner I don't know how to read this - is it OK? Or do should it be done over?

thanks,

Neil

Image Attachments:
Screenshot (99).png 

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Hi Neil - on that meshing options dialog that pops up, push he expander arrow in the lower left corner and set it to Display: Shaded so you don't have the polygon mesh edges getting in the way. Then you can zoom in to that area and examine it more closely.


> Question is - is it good enough to mill?

It depends on how you're milling it and what your own requirements are. It's pretty likely to be fine though.

- Michael

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"Do models need to be as perfect for woodworking as they do for rendering?"

I'd say no as well. No experience with milling wood, but I have milled metal based on MoI models and also 3D printed MoI models.

You're using a ball nose end mill and some amount of step-over in your tool paths. As you know, that creates tiny scallops in the piece. So by definition the end result is an approximation of the model. Luckily wood is easier to smooth after milling than metal :)

If any concern, you can always test by cutting out the section of interest in your model and mill just that section in scrap wood.

I think your model is fine.

Ed Ferguson

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Think this is what you mean - Yes - it looks like a problem as Marco suggested although it is less pronounced when you turn it a little (see second shot) . . . It seems to go in and there are some see-through spots. Would using the iso curve function help?

N

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Hi Neil, I can't see any see-through spots in your screenshot. If you could upload the .3dm model file that would make it possible to examine it more closely and try to give you some information on it. The iso curve function is a way to extract curves from a surface, it's not likely to be applicable here.

- Michael

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Hi Neil, I received your file through e-mail. It looks fine to me, I'm not sure why you'd be worried about that.

But if you do want a smoother shape where those blend surfaces meet, you can probably get that by using an option in the Blend command for making a curvature continuous blend instead of only a tangent continuous one:



That will make a blend with a higher amount of smoothness where it comes off the other surfaces. It's normal for 2 surfaces that are only tangent continuous to have a kind of slight interruption in reflective highlights. That should likely go away if you use the curvature continuity option though.

- Michael

Image Attachments:
neil_blend9.jpg 

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Hi Michael,

Awesome! Thanks for the clarification. Just thought that area might be a mistake. Looking forward to trying that option you pointed out - very cool program you have here. So hopefully will be posting some pictures of this neck in wood soon. It might be interesting for some to post pictures of the CAM tooling layout. Usually the tooling is done in 2-4 cycles. In this case - one 2D session for the contour (outline of the neck) & tuning key holes and then a 3D session comprised of roughing and finishing of the 3D surface. - N

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Hello VEGASGUITARS.

Yes! as Michael suggested a G2 Blend do the trick!

Wonderful job!
Congrats again :)

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Huge thanks to all the experts here sharing their advice and ideas - was able to mill a pretty good neck profile out of cherry. Photos and video posted on the thread for tummy and arm contours.

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Here is the second round milling a neck profile with the CNC machine. This is a different model - it has a Tele style heel and Strat style headstock. The tool paths are better and machining time is cut in half - this took 45 minutes and an additional 30 to cut it out with the band saw then sand with the random orbital. The methods used for the model are a combination of Jopo's and Barry's. Also the drawing would not be possible without help from quite a few folks here especially Michael. Can't tell you what a relief this machine is going to be - long time coming - it has mostly sat since I built it. Honestly after milling this - almost broke down seeing how smooth the headstock transition turned out . . . :) No more breaking my back and hands with the rasp and spoke shave.

https://youtu.be/fSVgXcwMZwU

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