Saw this go by awhile back. Just finished up and am back on my computer for some undetermined amount of time...
Made a quick video of Barry's model and take. Added a few steps to show how to change the transition rates by extra trimming before the blend. Too much bulge and you'll fold over or wrinkle...
Been practicing the method Barry posted with the added pointers from BurrMan and am starting to get some nice results. Thanks again for all the great tips and ideas. The necks get better and better thanks to you guys.
Pretty happy with the latest neck for the Riviera and Ione models - the transitions are getting sleeker and more gradual. These are done using a combination of techniques learned here - especially Jopo's. Still have to get better at working with solids. The networked necks are done well enough now to make solid. Looking forward to milling this neck - the top of the neck is not done because it's faster to do the fretboard and headstock face by hand using jigs. Thanks for taking a look. Also many thanks to those who gave a hand with learning the ropes - still not there yet but progress is always encouraging. This is by far the best forum in terms of sharing of information and project assistance I've ever seen. Would imagine that's mainly because the writer of the program is so hands on it's astonishing. Some days it's like everything falls into place - other days I have to shut it down because it seems impossible. Anyone else experience that?
If you're building a neck-through or set-neck instrument it's very important to have a detailed cross-sectional drawing or full-size plans for the instrument. The neck angle relative to the instrument's top, and the top's shape or contour along with fingerboard and fret height, must be taken into account and designed to work with the bridge height. If it's your first attempt at a new design, be sure to have the bridge, truss rod and all other hardware nearby. This will let you know the ranges of application for these components, as well as how they will fit together. You must provide adequate access to the truss rod, and the bridge must be adjustable within the intended string height range determined by the neck.
Don't make your truss rod channel too big or too deep, especially in the peghead/volute region. This will weaken the neck, making it susceptible to neck breaks or the truss rod punching its way out the back of the neck. https://8ballpool.onl/ https://googlehangouts.ooo/ https://omegle.onl/
Thanks much for the input. While new to modeling and CAD/CAM not new to guitar repair or building - that's how I make my living. Started repairing professionally in 98 and built my first guitar around 2006 and have built many guitars and basses since. You can check some of em out here : vegasguitars.com - the slide show on the main page has quite a few guitars and basses - neck through, set necks and bolt-ons.
Thanks again for the suggestions - can always stand to learn new and better ways to do things in even though I'm an old codger. CAD/CAM has been a struggle to learn - but it's beginning to pay off in a big way around the shop.
A few folks asked to see the finished neck - am finishing the body too and will post next week. This neck was modeled entirely in MoI and milled using Estlcam.
Here is the completed project - the guitar body, pickguard and neck are modeled in MoI then milled, finished and assembled here. It was custom ordered by the lead singer in the "Bee Gees Gold" show. He asked for that pickguard (not my first choice). It is chambered and only 1.5" thick. The body is alder and the top, neck and fingerboard are curly birds eye maple. Thanks for all the help - without which making this with a CNC machine would not have been possible so soon. The rear lower pickup rout on the model looks a little misshapen because it is designed for both the humbucker and the traditional pickup - which fits in the pocket sideways. The tops are routed for either. There are three neck designs for this instrument - each one has a little bit larger profile (the round part where you put your hand) to suit different tastes. The middle one was used for this guitar. FYI Made the pickguard by gluing some drum wrap material to a piece of thin acrylic - then milled a template with the machine - then used the template to route the pickguard complete with bevel. After routing the pickguard sprayed the back flat black so the acrylic edge would show up and match the switch knob and o-rings on the volume and tone control knobs. Thanks for taking a look.
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