At:
http://htmldog.com/
there are some tutorials on CSS and HTML.

At:
http://andreasviklund.com/learn/tutorial-building-your-first-website-using-a-free-website-template-part-2/
there is mention of free NVU editor, (which would probably not display some Moi specific things:)
http://net2.com/nvu/download.html
and also free Notepad++